Apron Dress Layout

The Viking Apron dress is fairly simple to make, using just two of the four pieces we’ve already created for our Caftan pattern. Step one is to determine how long you want your apron dress to be. As this is for me, I determined I wanted mine to be about 9” off the floor. So taking that number, I go back to my original measurement chart. My gore was 51 3/8” long, so I need to shorten it to 42 3/8”. I simply fold up the gore from the bottom edge until I have the desired length.

Fold the Gore from the bottom.

Fold the Gore from the bottom.

Fold up from the bottom, creating a crease in the middle, never top down. Why is that? Because the Apron dress is snug around the chest. Not tight, but snug. If you fold top down, then you have that much more to stitch in at the sides to create the desired look.

Once you have your gore folded and measured, the easiest thing to do is to place your main piece next to it and fold the main piece to match. Since this is a giant rectangle, it does not matter if you fold top to bottom, bottom to top, or take your half out of the middle. As long as the side measurement matches your new gore length exactly, you have the piece right.

I fold the main piece top down

I fold the main piece top down

Once you have your pattern piece length set, you’re ready to cut out. I still cut mine on the cross fold as the most economical use of fabric; however, due to the dress being completely open across the top, I do not pin on fold for the main piece.

When laying out the gore piece, be aware of where the fold line is, and free hand your tracing. You still want that smooth line on the diagonal from the top of the gore to the bottom.

Freehand from top of gore to where the fold is

Freehand from top of gore to where the fold is

Flip the pattern piece over top to bottom and retrace the other set of gores. Once you are done cutting, you will have two main pieces and four gores, ready to stitch together. For this project, I am using Raven’s Wing Habotai, for the video of the process, watch below.

Moving west from east, in this video I show you how to shorten your existing pattern to create a Viking Apron dress, and then how to make the most economical use of your fabric during cut out with the two pieces you need to create this dress.