Like so many other things, Faille is a weaving technique which can be found in any fiber, not just silk. But since silk can be woven in a Faille weave, let’s talk about what Faille is. Faille is one of many rib weaves, meaning the fabric itself has a texture due to the appearance of vertical or horizontal ribs as part of the weaving. Rib weave when done as Faille is a plain woven fabric, so one over one under. In Faille, the ribs are usually horizontal. So what causes the ribs? Ribbing is caused when either the warp or the weft threads are thicker than the cross weave. In silk faille, as the ribs tend to be horizontal, the loom is threaded with a finer thread so that the weft or filling threads are thicker than the warp or loomed threads.
Now according to Fairchild’s, Faille is particular to silk in that cotton faille has silk on the warp, with the weft being the thicker cotton threads. For silk Faille, the weft threads would be a heavier ply than the warp threads. The end result in either case is a beautiful fabric that drapes well and is fairly easy to tailor, as the fabric itself has texture which contributes to it’s ease of use.