Shantung takes it’s name from the province in which it was originally woven, Shandong. This is a rough woven plain weave fabric. So plain weave, we have explored, but what does rough woven mean? Originally, this meant the yarns were uneven in weight prior to weaving, almost always Tussah silk, made on hand looms. Now, like all things, quality improved dramatically so that now, any slubbiness from the filling yarns is fully intentional. Modern Shantung is still slubby on the weft, with imperfections in the yarn kept in tact, but the warp is cultivated silk, so that there is very little difference between dupioni and Shantung.

Shantung, Pongee, and Dupioni are so similar in weave, weight, and hand, that to the average craftsman, they are virtually interchangeable. But the tiny differences in actual manufacture, as highlighted in the individual blog posts, tells a different story in how they came to be, both originally, and as modern textiles.