Intro: The Stand Pocket
The stand pocket is where WILD starts the chapter on pockets. And the directions start out contradictory, saying that “as a rule” stand pockets are found on jacket breasts, but then immediately Mary Brooks Pickens talks about stand pockets on skirts too. Position is generally marked during the earliest part of construction, and one thing to keep in mind with tailored garments is pattern matching. The samples I’m making for all the pockets will use a striped cotton, as stripes are comparatively easy to pattern match.
Now, the Stand Pocket is a multi-step process, beginning with drafting a pattern piece. As pattern pieces go, this one was pretty straightforward. A simple parallelogram. Start with drafting a rectangle. The Stand Pocket can be anywhere from 3 1/2” to 5” wide, but for this first practice piece, our stand will be 3 1/2” wide, so the long edges of the pattern piece are 3 1/2” long. The connecting end lines are 2 1/4” long. Once you have your rectangle drawn, mark the lower right corner A, lower left B, upper left C, upper right D.
Next, mark a point 1 1/8” down from D on the D to A line. Label this E. Mark a point up 1 1/8” from B on the B to C line, mark this F. Draw a diagonal line from B to E and a diagonal line from F to D. If you want to, you can round the upper corners. Mark a small notch on the bottom edge for matching later, so you don’t mix up the up/down orientation of the pattern piece.
Cut out and voila! You have the pattern piece for your Stand Pocket. Now unfortunately, due to technical error (read user error…I forgot to actually hit the record button on the GoPro), there is no video of the process. But it really is that simple. A piece of paper, a ruler, and a pencil, will get you the pattern piece needed for your Stand Pocket.