Sleeve Attached

Finally! The final piece of the sloper set: The Sleeve. The sleeve, being not cut on a bias or fold, needs a straight grain marker. The easiest line to use for this is the first line, denoted when drawing the pattern piece as A to B line. This line remains utterly perpendicular throughout the pattern process, while the pattern below the elbow skews in. So when laying out your piece, use the A to B line to square up to the straight grain.

A to B = Straight Grain

A to B = Straight Grain

Remember to allow 1/2” seam allowance on the sleeve sides. Pin, cut out, mark your dart and front/back tick marks. Stitch the dart first. Once the dart is stitched, the sides will fit together smoothly, stitch in to place.

Darts to the back

Darts to the back

If you forget to mark the front/back notches, just remember that the dart goes to the back so your elbow can bend. Once you’ve stitched together the sleeve sides, set the sleeve in to the bodice, matching seam at underarm, and easing sleeve cap around shoulder area.

Stitched in and done

Stitched in and done

Sloper set is done! Once you have the sloper set, it is (theoretically) easy to create a wide variation of patterns off this basic set. We’ll be testing that theory extensively as I work through Patternmaking for Fashion Design over the next few months.