The Sleeve

Measure twice…

Measure twice…

Woohoo! I did it! I made a sleeve pattern! Haven’t made the sleeve yet, but I followed the directions and got something that looks like the picture in the book. Here’s how I did it.

First…More math. This isn’t that bad though. Start with your flexible ruler. Measure out the front and back armscye from the bodice pattern pieces. Add these two measurements together, divide in half, then add 1/4” This number helps in drafting both bicep and sleeve cap.

Patternmaking for Fashion Design includes a chart for sleeve length, cap height and biceps measurement. Use the sleeve length for your size to draw the first line, designated A to B in the book. The Cap height is your A to C line, with C to D being half the line length from C to B. D to D’ is 3/4” D’ is your elbow location. C to E is half of the biceps measurement from the provided chart. Note: If drafting for you, use your actual bicep measurement. C to F is the other half of the bicep measurement. Draw a line from A to E, then from A to F. Divide the A to E and A to F lines in to fourths, with E and F being the first fourth. Mark the E to A lines as G, H, K, starting at E. A to F will be marked L, M, N, starting at point A. B to O and B to P are each two inches less than the C to E and C to F lines.

Got all that?

Got all that?

Sleeve cap. Use the correct French rule

Sleeve cap. Use the correct French rule

To create the actual sleeve cap, mark a point 3/8” in at G, out 1/4” at H, and out 5/8” at K. On the front part of the sleeve cap, mark out 3/4” at L, out 3/16” at M and in 1/2” at N. Using the french curve, draw the sleeve cap arcs.

Now, the human arm is NOT just up and down. The elbow gets in the way. If you want to be able to bend your arm, you got add a dart at the elbow.

The line squared out at D gets labeled S on the front/right side of the pattern piece. On the left side of the piece, mark out 1/4” and label this R. Draw a new line from E to R. T is the halfway point between R and D. The dart opening is 1” down from R, and gets marked point U. Connect the dart leg U to T. Starting at point O, mark 3/4” in from V. Draw a new line from U to V equal to the line that runs from point S to point P. This new left part of the sleeve is labeled W. Draw a new edge of sleeve equal to the original O to P measurement. This should touch a point approximately 3/4” to the right of point P. Label this new connection as X and draw a new line from S to X. Congratulations! You have now made a sleeve pattern.

Looks just like it!

Looks just like it!