Posts tagged patterning
Splitting the Shoulder Dart

Basically, extend the shoulder dart to your horizontal balance line (HBL) that runs from center back to armscye. Pick a point in the neckline and extend a line from the neckline to where the dart meets the HBL. Cut out the dart, then slash the neck line and HBL from armscye to but not through where the dart point meets the HBL. Close the shoulder dart and the dart excess will be transferred equally to the armscye and neckline.

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Reworking the schedule.--again

I really want to GET pattern making. There are so many things I want to make that there are no patterns for (that I know of…to be fair, it’s entirely possible I just haven’t been exposed the right pattern maker yet). So I’m reworking my blog posting schedule so that rather than running ahead with the lessons and having to back track the posting, I’m posting in line with what I’m learning.

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Changing Dart Locations

Before learning to manipulate darts, it’s important to understand that darts can adjust fullness along 10 different points. TEN! I knew it logically from having read other books, but realistically, after a lifetime of working with the Big Four pattern makers, I’ve seen darts in two locations. Left/Right of the waist, and from the side to the bust point. The Big Four lack dart imagination.

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Dart Manipulation

Flat Patterning allows for easy manipulation of a design. I’m sure draping does too, but Joseph-Armstrong specifies that flat patternmaking is based on three principles:

  1. Dart Manipulation

  2. Added Fullness

  3. Contouring

And each of these principles is explored in depth, starting with Dart Manipulation in Chapter 4.

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